Type: Runway Set Design Client: Stine Goya Location: Copenhagen, Denmark Status: Completed, February 2022
Danish fashion brand, Stine Goya, is known for offering a colourful and vibrant alternative in a saturated fashion industry. Spacon & X was asked to set the stage for the Goya AW22 fashion show; a show that creates the illusion of an ‘inside-out universe’, playing with the boundaries between the digital and the physical.
For their latest collection, Stine Goya drew essential inspiration from artist Olafur Eliasson’s masterpiece work, ’LIFE’. Eliasson’s exhibition represents a vision of life as abstract and blurs the line between reality and illusion, nature and virtual, through a set-up of digital projections, mirrors and artificial elements that play with the human eye and its perception of the world. In conceptualising the set design, Spacon & X continued to dwell on Goya’s inspiration of Eliasson, maintaining the aesthetics of the new clothing collection and the Stine Goya brand identity as key pillars in creating a unique universe for the show. A fashion collection that features a collage of organic forms, elevated shapes and searing colour and material combinations; with distorted and layered materials hand-painted with patterns of ‘’floral abundance’’ that collide with water-inspired prints.
The show was hosted in the enigmatic halls of Designmuseum Danmark, a space that entails a vital element of character, charm and potential in itself. The materials in the newly renovated halls include eloquent marble floors and generous window placements, which contributed to materialising the 1-day site-specific design. The set design had a clear aim of creating a concept that framed the collection within the room without taking anything from the magnificent room. The key challenge was to create a design that respected the requirements of the listed space. The solution was integrating technological elements that would enhance, reflect, and reframe the surrounding input.
To bring Stine Goya’s vision of an ‘inside out universe’ Spacon & X aimed to create a sense of reality that is a subjective matter to the individual observer, and dependent on which media you observe it through. Spacon & X decided to work with the space between reality and artificiality, by framing a virtual parallel space in the physical reality. Spacon created a new dimension where the human and architectural aspects of the runway came together and were enhanced and mirrored by a subversive digital perspective created by interactive and digital screens during the show.
In the set design, Spacon & X recreated how nature responds to human interaction by employing the old technique of a feedback loop between camera and screen. When the models on the runway walked between the camera and the screen, a digital artificial ripple effect was evoked reminiscent of someone sweeping their hands through a meadow of flowers.
The set design contained six screens setting the stage. Upon arrival, they cast an orange hue - Stine Goya’s new signature colour - upon the guests. As the show started, the screens turned into organically moving colour palettes. As the first model walked past, a ripple effect started that created an infinity of replicated models walking past behind her. A response to the analogue human presence framed in a digital and innovative way. The digital screens also created a bright, playful and imaginative atmosphere for the guests, inviting them as outsiders to enter the infinite and colourful possibilities inside the Stine Goya universe.
In between the six interactive screens, mirrors were placed to further enhance the feeling of infinite space. Not only were the models multiplied by the pulsating screens, but the rooms, guests and overall atmosphere were also framed within the mirrored worlds. Spacon & X also created custom seating elements for the show, made from fascines, traditionally used to strengthen an earthen structure from erosion. The chairs connected the digital show to nature with a raw and industrial feel.
As the focus on sustainability has heightened for Copenhagen Fashion Week, so have the requirements for brands displaying their designs. Hence, these aspects were taken into account at every stage of the design process. The seating elements created for the show are to be integrated into the coming exhibition design that Spacon & X is currently working on at Designmuseum Denmark. Furthermore, all other equipment was rented to make the set design come together for this unique and one day only event, which allowed Stine Goya and Spacon & X to eliminate any waste connected to the temporary show.
As a natural extension to the digitally inspired show, Spacon & X also created a digital teaser journey that unveiled the story and vision of the set design in the days leading up to the show. The teaser campaign included a digital save the date, invitation, website countdown, and five abstracted video teasers inducing the show concept by implementing the ripple effect while giving a suspense to the show. The idea behind the digital assets was to reveal Stine Goya’s new visual identity and simultaneously to include every guest and observer in the digital yet organic experience at every stage. Truly inviting them to be part of Goya’s inside out universe from the outset, and throughout.
“This season is directional, elevated and bold. We are evolving the codes we have built overtime at Stine Goya – daring to be different, celebrating the confidence and beauty of individuality. It has been such a joy collaborating with Spacon & X in the realization of our show. They have brought our vision to life.”
– Stine Goya, Founder & Creative Director
“I have a long personal and professional relation to Stine Goya, and worked with design at her studio in the early years, so a collaboration has been in the cards for a long time. Spacon & X works with spatial identity and the staging of a space, and the runway show is probably one of the most intense formats of spatial staging, and for us this was an obvious place to collaborate with Stine Goya. For the show we altered digital media to respond to human interaction in the same way as natural elements, such as water, wind and fire. The result is an interactive inside out feedback loop between the analog and digital”
– Malene Hvidt, Architect & Partner at Spacon & X